DIY Cabinet Painting Mistakes (And How We Avoid Them as Pros)
Thinking about painting your kitchen cabinets yourself? It might seem like a weekend project, but cabinet painting is one of the most detail-sensitive jobs in home improvement — and the difference between a smooth, durable finish and a peeling mess comes down to a few critical steps.
At Craft & Revive, we’ve seen it all — from chalky brush strokes to cracked finishes — and we’re often called in to fix DIY attempts gone wrong. If you're weighing your options, here's what most homeowners get wrong when they try to do it themselves — and how we avoid those mistakes to deliver professional-grade results.
❌ 1. Skipping the Degreasing Step
The mistake:
Most cabinets, especially around stoves, sinks and microwaves, are coated in invisible layers of oil and residue. Painting over that grime guarantees poor adhesion — your paint will peel, bubble, or chip within months.
How we fix it:
We use Krud Kutter degreaser and Scotch-Brite pads to break down grease at a molecular level, followed by a full rinse and dry time. No shortcuts — this step lays the foundation for everything else.
❌ 2. Not Sanding Properly (or at All)
The mistake:
Light scuff-sanding — or skipping sanding entirely — is one of the most common reasons cabinet paint jobs fail. Many DIY kits claim “no sanding needed,” but that’s more marketing than truth. Without proper surface prep, primer and paint have nothing to grip onto. We’ve seen countless examples — even in popular videos — where paint peels off in sheets simply because the surface wasn’t sanded first.
How we fix it:
We use 150-grit Festool abrasives and professional sanders (Festool and Surfprep) to fully sand the substrate and create mechanical adhesion — so that primers and paints actually bond with the surface.
❌ 3. Using the Wrong Primer
The mistake:
Homeowners often grab whatever primer is on the shelf. Many aren’t designed for slick surfaces like laminate or sealed wood, and won’t block wood tannins from bleeding through over time.
How we fix it:
We spray ICRO W-300 catalyzed sealer, known for its exceptional adhesion and stain-blocking performance. That’s followed by ICRO W-416 catalyzed high-build primer, specially formulated for cabinetry. It levels beautifully, delivers excellent adhesion, and eliminates bleed-through — all with a smooth, brush-free finish.
❌ 4. Painting With Rollers or Brushes
The mistake:
Rollers leave texture. Brushes leave streaks. Even the best latex paint will look homemade if it's applied by hand.
How we fix it:
We use commercial spray equipment to apply catalyzed ICRO topcoats — ultra-smooth, professional finishes that rival what you’d see on showroom cabinetry.
❌ 5. Using Paint That Isn’t Made for Cabinets
The mistake:
Wall paint, trim enamel, chalk paint — none of these are meant for daily contact, water exposure, or cleaning chemicals. The result? A finish that chips, peels, or scratches easily.
How we fix it:
We apply ICRO W-5000, a 2K water-based polyurethane that’s used in high-end cabinetry shops. It’s chemical-resistant, scratch-resistant, and made for kitchens.
❌ 6. Reinstalling Doors Too Soon
The mistake:
Many homeowners reinstall cabinet doors within 24–48 hours of painting, but most paints haven’t fully cured yet — especially latex-based ones. This leads to sticking, damage, and ruined edges.
How we fix it:
We allow our finishes to fully cure in a controlled shop environment before reinstalling — no shortcuts. You get a clean, professional result that lasts.
🛠️ Want It Done Right the First Time?
Painting kitchen cabinets is harder than it looks — and the margin for error is razor thin. That’s why more homeowners are turning to professional cabinet refinishing instead of DIY kits.
At Craft & Revive, we specialize in high-end cabinet refinishing in Dayton, Beavercreek, Centerville, Kettering, and Springboro. We use commercial-grade products, professional spray techniques, and a tested process that delivers long-lasting results — every time.
👉 See our complete cabinet refinishing process — start to finish
